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We proceed using swedging pliers, there are limitations to swedging pliers.
They damage the finish on the key, they should not be used IMO if they cannot swedge at least 70 percent of the keys length
They damage the finish on the key, they should not be used IMO if they cannot swedge at least 70 percent of the keys length
Three areas of this key I was unable to swedge, however majority (90 percent of its length) has been swedged, IMO this is acceptable
Spot face tool as used in the earlier posts to reduce its length
Up close of the Hinge Tubing showing the issue with using swedging pliers, it heavily marks the surface, finish work will be needed
Depending on the condition of the Rod screw we can proceed one of two ways
Option 1 The rod screw is good, we can swedge the key down (squeeze outer hinge tube down onto Rod and remove gap)
Option 2 The rod screw is rusty, we make a new rod slightly thicker and ream the key to fit
Option 1 The rod screw is good, we can swedge the key down (squeeze outer hinge tube down onto Rod and remove gap)
Option 2 The rod screw is rusty, we make a new rod slightly thicker and ream the key to fit
We start swedging by clamping and turning the key
The Rod screw itself polished up fine, no pits or corrosion
Reference example Red - Rod screw, Brown- Hinge tube
A - Typical worn gap between rod and tube
B - Perfection, the perfect world tube and rod run against each other
C - A bad use of swedging pliers, this key will come loose again in a year of use
D - Acceptable, at least 70 percent or more of the key has been swedged
A - Typical worn gap between rod and tube
B - Perfection, the perfect world tube and rod run against each other
C - A bad use of swedging pliers, this key will come loose again in a year of use
D - Acceptable, at least 70 percent or more of the key has been swedged
Octave floating lever
Same location
Key in front, a Rod screw inside a Hinge tube which displays too much gap between them, so we Repeat a Type 3 repair
Same location
Key in front, a Rod screw inside a Hinge tube which displays too much gap between them, so we Repeat a Type 3 repair
When I remove the key, I find this spring fitted in back the front.
Was not my intention to show how to fit a spring but it is a mechanical repair
Was not my intention to show how to fit a spring but it is a mechanical repair
Heat the end of the spring to a light red
Peen it flat with a hammer, this flat section is what locates it in the post and stops it from rotating when in use
Using spring insertion tools, we press the flat end into the post
We purchase springs in Carbon or Stainless typically, they are spaced in 2 thou increments
Using an appropriate sized spring, we size it vee the sharp end sitting under the desired spring cradle location
Snip the excess off at the post
One fitted spring
The end fits into the cradle and does not protrude past it
The floating octave key we were dealing with before the spring issue has now been extended / buffed and plated as per type 3 repair walk through
P4
Side Bb Key
This Rod screw is so badly gunged up I cannot even get it to come out cleanly
This Rod screw is so badly gunged up I cannot even get it to come out cleanly
Swedging also made it a fraction longer, it no longer fits between posts
Some buffing / polishing and plating
Type 3 Repair, a repair where we have a Rod screw inside a hinge tube, the rod is loose in the hinge tubing
Note: Swedge is an alternative name for swage, it is predominantly used in the Woodwind repair industry
Type 4 Repair, replacement of a key spring